I've tried toilet-bowl cleaners that "clean under the rim," using a soft, flexible brush, and even put bleach up into that, but nothing seems to work. If you do not assemble them correctly, the seals between the tank and the bolt heads will leak. I don't know what a cross-section of a toilet looks like, but I suspect the smell is coming from under the lip where the water comes in to fill the bowl. (We keep the lid down when not in use to keep our cats out.) The tank doesn't seem to have any problem, and the base is clean and grouted to the tile. It seems to be coming from the bowl, as the smell is stongest when the lid is up. This way, youre applying even pressure on the toilet so it stays level and the bowl doesnt crack. Stop tightening as soon as the nut is snug. Then, use a wrench to finish tightening the bolts, but go back and forth between the two bolts. If the nut and/or bolt are rusted in place, spray some penetrating oil on the assemblage, wait 15 to 20 minutes and try to remove it again. Set a plastic washer onto each bolt and screw a nut onto the bolts by hand. There was a lot of dried urine, which I thought was the source of the odor, but even when that toilet is as clean as I can get it, even now, six months later, it STILL smells. To install this type of cap, you have to first remove the nuts and metal washers on the existing closet bolts using a wrench. Read more for Fluidmaster’s recommended installation and to see a diagram of the recommended installation.
#Correct way to install toilet tank bolts professional
Each professional has their own preference as to how this should be accomplished. Using your rotary hammer and drill bits, make a 1 ½ inch hole in the concrete at each of the four marks. Installing the tank bolts can be done in a variety of ways. Ensure the screws align to where your toilet base will be and mark down the drilled holes on the floor. Knowing that the previous owners had young twin boys who had potty-trained while living here, we replaced the toilet seats, and I scrubbed and bleached under the fittings, in every crevise behind and under the toilet, and everywhere I could reach. First, you should place your flange on the floor with the rubber facing upwards. If the toilet is secured good with bolts now you are probably all set. If the floor is junk you are in for a hard time as well. Skip the toilets under 100 and just make sure to get something with a big hole (big flapper) between the tank and the toilet. We bought our house in January, and I've been trying ever since to find the source of a sewage odor from the m/b toilet. Grab a toilet, wax ring and some bolts, and replace the whole thing. Remove the lid from the toilet tank to have a better view of the water level when we flush the water once.
The toilet tank’s control valve is usually close to th e toilet tank which will be fixed into the wall. Add a third rubber washerand an additional metal washer on the tank bolt, followed by a nut under the bowl. Carefully lift the tank and place it over the holes on the bowl. Tighten the nuts with your handand then gently use a tool tightener. I've been married 17 years, have lived in numerous apartments and houses, and have cleaned plenty of toilets, but this is the first time I've come across this problem: Shut down the water supply that’s connected to the toilet. Put a nut on each bolt underneath the tank.
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